I continue to receive feedback and this update has many improvements and small bug fixes. The most obvious change is that loot containers will now turn a dark gray color on the mini-map after you’ve emptied them. This will help you to easily identify which ones you’ve checked already.

Another significant change is the monster AI was tweaked so that more intelligent creatures, and higher level creatures, will attempt to conserve stamina more around the 50% level so as not to incur penalties, instead of “blowing it all right away”. This should lead to more challenging combat at higher levels. Also, for those at level 15 or above, monster stats (health, stamina, stamina regen, accuracy and defense) will significantly increase because it was too heavily skewed toward players, and higher-end weapon stats were lowered a bit. This is just one of many improvements, especially for higher levels, that will come in the near future.

For those that don’t like the requirement for the extra hit to kill after someone reaches zero HP, there is now an optional switch in SETTINGS under the GAME page to turn that off. Plus, I also added an optional switch to freeze hireling morale and remove requirements for lodging or performing preferred activities in town. Using this mode you can still take part in activities for a potential positive effect, but hireling morale will always stay neutral no matter what. That is a significant departure from my original design for the game and will dramatically change it, but I also feel that players should be able to play the way they want so I added it. But, again, both of these are optional and by default the game requires the extra hit to kill and uses hireling morale.

Another noticeable change is when using Area-of-Effect abilities, the space under allies or enemies will only highlight if they will be affected by the ability. For example, if using a support ability like HEAL OTHERS, the targeting circle will appear green but not under a monster. Similarly, when using an offensive ability that only targets enemies, the ground under allies will not be highlighted red. But an offensive ability that affects everyone will highlight under everyone, indicating that you could potentially harm an ally.

Due to an issue that some users had, you can now no longer use the DROP button from the INVENTORY screen in town. If you have an item that you wish to dispose of, you need to sell it to the Merchant (even if its for zero coin). I also got rid of the chance of dying while completing an odd job in town. You can still receive a negative effect if it goes badly, but there is no chance of dying now.

There are lots of other small changes and bug fixes. I keep a running list of build updates here: https://www.infinitedungeoncrawler.com/release-notes/

Significant changes to accuracy to make battles go faster and be more enjoyable

I received a lot of feedback in the first week of release here. It seems that the biggest complaint about the game is the hit rate is so low that battles last too long with far too many misses, and that your stamina is depleted and then too hard to replenish. So I’ve made some significant changes to the battle system to make it a more enjoyable experience, especially for new players.

Overall accuracy for both characters and monsters has increased, which will result in a greater hit rate. I also put limits on a lot of stuff during initial character creation to ensure that players choose appropriate weapons and skills for their character, based on class, to ensure maximum accuracy. And Dexterity points will now contribute +2 to MELEE ACCURACY as well as RANGED ACCURACY.

Previously, you had to have a successful DEFEND (meaning used it and weren’t hit) to replenish any of your MAXIMUM STAMINA, which is the white bar that caps your STAMINA at any given time. And even with that it would replenish at a trickle. Now, just using DEFEND (even if you’re hit) will replenish maximum stamina by 50% of your normal stamina regeneration rate, and a successful DEFEND will replenish at 100%. You still have to monitor stamina in the game, but you’re far less likely to run out of it and get stuck there.

But what if you liked the difficulty involved in the original conception of the game? Well, you’re in luck. I have added an OLD-SCHOOL switch under the SETTINGS menu that will use the old stamina regeneration system. And if you bump the DIFFICULTY setting up one notch, that will fairly match the prior difficulty.

Another change is that the lowest quality weapons of ALL TYPES are now affordable for initial characters (previously you couldn’t initially afford weapons like a two-handed sword or a two-handed hammer).

I also added a SETTING to change the color of menu highlights to blue for easier viewing by those with color-blindness.

Finally, some players didn’t like having their stamina run down while exploring and having to camp often, so while this is still the default for the game, there is an option in SETTINGS to disable this if you prefer.

 

Here’s some other stuff about the game that is handy to know:

 

 


 

Lodging

While it isn’t absolutely required that your main player character have lodgings, you will suffer a serious negative affliction when you go through The Gate if you don’t (-25% stamina and health).  The guards will warn you about this prior to going.  In addition, hirelings will desire for you (as their employer) to provide lodgings for them. You don’t have to, but they won’t like having to pay on their own and it will be a drag on their morale.  To spring for their lodgings, just select ROOMS from either the Tavern or the Inn, or select your House if you have one, then slot them to the appropriate bed.  There are a limited number of beds in each location. 

For the Tavern and the Inn, the rent is paid on the spot when you slot characters to them, so if you change your mind later you’re out of luck because there are no refunds.  When parties return from an expedition through The Gate, all rents and/or taxes are paid at that time (after loot is split).  If you don’t have enough coin for the next month’s rent, someone may get kicked out and that is an indignity and bad for morale.  

You basically have four housing options: the Alley, the Tavern, the Inn or a House.

The Alley is free, but it is far from ideal.  Your main player character is the only one that can sleep here, not hirelings.  And you are not likely to have a good night’s rest and will probably receive negative afflictions on a regular basis.  This is basically for if you have run out of coin and have no other option.

The Tavern has four walls.  Not so much on the roof.  But free showers are included when it rains!  The Tavern is noisy, smelly, and rat-infested … but its cheap at 5 coins per month per bed.  Occupants are likely to incur negative afflictions from time to time, and generally hirelings will have very mixed feelings (i.e.; morale) about staying here.  But in the end it is better than nothing.

The Inn is nicer than the Tavern.  They actually have sheets there.  Now, whether they’re washed or not is another story.  But hirelings will be much happier staying here.  Of course, at 15 coins per month per bed it is much more expensive.  And they are not very likely to receive negative afflictions from staying there.

If you inquire at the Mayor’s Office, you can purchase a lot in town for 1,000 coins and build a house on it.  A house is nice and has 8 beds, plus your hirelings will feel warm and cozy and happy staying there.  They will also likely receive positive effects from time to time.  A house also has a storage chest that you can safely offload items that you don’t want to carry around all the time.  There is a flat 50 coin tax each month regardless of how many occupants your house has.  You can also upgrade your house at some point to provide even nicer lodgings with 10 rooms.  Hirelings will love living there.


Monthly News

Each time you come back from an expedition through The Gate or you advance time via the HOURGLASS button, the MONTHLY NEWS will be displayed.  This is a summary of how many monsters were killed during your excursion as well as how many you have killed in total.  It will also display information regarding your party, such as how much experience they gained, whether they are ready to level up, if they have an injury or disease and what to do about it, as well as the effect the excursion and lodgings had on their morale.  If anyone was tasked with an ODD JOB, the results will be displayed. 

You can always bring up the last monthly news by selecting the NEWS button at the bottom of the screen while in town.


Lockpicking

Sometimes you will encounter chests that are locked, and in some expansion packs there will be doors that can be locked.  In order to lockpick, you must first have the Lockpicking skill (Rogues have this by default, everyone else must acquire it).  Second, you must have a lockpick, which can be found as loot or purchased at the Merchant.

When you encounter a locked container/door and attempt to open it, you’ll hear a jiggling sound (like a door handle) and the COMBAT LOG will tell you it is locked.  The INVENTORY button will then change to the LOCKPICKING button.  Use this to attempt to pick the lock.  Note that lockpicking cannot be performed in combat.

Locks have varying difficulties and typically get harder as the worlds go higher in level.  Your Dexterity determines your skill at picking the lock, and the result will be displayed.  If the lock is beyond your capability, or you have a chance and can keep trying, you will be told so.  However, difficult locks have a chance to break the lockpick, destroying it.  You can keep trying with other lockpicks until you successfully pick it or give up.  

You can also try to BASH open a locked chest or door instead of attempting to pick the lock (see the next section). 


Bashing

Some chests (and doors in some expansion packs) may be locked.  If you have the necessary skill and lockpick, as mentioned in the section above, you can try to pick the lock.  But you can also attempt to BASH them open.

You may also come across doors that are stuck and won’t open.  You can also use BASH on these.

When you attempt to open a locked or stuck object, the CAMP or ATTACK button will change into the BASH button.  Select this to attempt to open the object by force.

Different objects have different difficulty levels, and this will generally increase as the world levels increase.  Strength is the primary determinant of how successful your bash attempt will be, and the result will be displayed in the COMBAT LOG.  No object is impossible to bash open, but unsuccessful attempts have a chance to inflict an injury.  So be very judicious if the object appears to be very difficult compared to your capabilities.  You could also try having a character with a higher Strength attempt it.



Leveling Up

 

 

 

 

On each character’s ATTRIBUTES screen is a green progress bar that shows your EXPERIENCE POINTS (XP) and your progress toward the next level.  When a character has reached the XP required for the next level, they can level up the next time they return to town.  You will be notified of this via the MONTHLY NEWS window and you will see the icon shown here in the upper-left corner of the screen.  Select that icon to begin the level up process.  At any time during the upgrade process, if you want to view your character’s attributes, inventory, abilities or skills, just tap on the character’s portrait to bring that info up.

Each time you level up, you are granted 1 attribute point and either 1 ability point plus 1 skill point, or 2 skill points, depending on your class and whether it is an even or odd level (refer to the Class subject of the Building your Character section of this guide).  You may choose to bank any points and spend them at a later time, but the LEVEL UP icon will always appear in town whenever you or your hirelings have points to spend.

NOTE: In the Free-to-Play version of the game, you may not level a character up beyond level 4.  You may continue playing, but any XP that would have normally been earned will be tossed away and you will stay at level 4.  If you purchase the game, normal assignment of XP will continue.  However, you will not receive any XP’s that were previously tossed out.


 

Setting a Custom Zoom Level

 

When walking and exploring the worlds beyond The Gate, you can adjust the zoom level via the slider on the left side of the screen or, if your device supports it, by pinching and zooming with two fingers.  However, when combat starts (and ends), the game will automatically revert to a preset zoom level, which tends to be closer-up for combat and further-out for non-combat. There is also a third setting, which occurs in worlds that have rooms (available in some expansion packs).   As soon as you step into a room, it typically zooms in a little so that you can see the room contents better.

If you get tired of constantly adjusting the zoom, you can preset any of these zoom levels.  To do this, just adjust the zoom under the given circumstance (combat, non-combat, or in a room) with the slider to your desired level, then hold down over the button until it beeps.  The game will then use that preset zoom level whenever you encounter that same circumstance.

If you later adjust the zoom level and want to return to your preset level, just tap the button once.


Game Difficulty

 

If you find the battles in the game to be too difficult, or the opposite — too easy — you can go into the SETTINGS menu and then to the GAME page and adjust the GAME DIFFICULTY slider.  This will generally give the monsters more or less health and stamina, as well as adjust both the ACC and DEF either higher or lower.  Note that the changes to ACC and DEF are instantaneous, but the stamina and health is determined when you go through The Gate and a new world is generated.


Graphics Quality

 

IDC uses a system where individual characters and monsters are rendered from pieces.  Many games have “canned” characters (e.g., the Mage always looks the same or you have only a few choices).  IDC was built to allow all kinds of customization, from facial features to skin tone to body size, plus all those unique weapons and armor pieces.  All of that takes a fair amount of computing power to generate and put together, then animate on the screen.

If you have a gaming computer with lots of memory and a great graphics card, that’s great and you should have no problems.  But for devices with lower memory, you may find the game just quits on you (crashes) due to low memory.  When you first run the game, it will prompt you about what type of device you are running and automatically set an appropriate graphics settings based on your answer.  But you may still need to manually set some things to optimize the game. 

Go into the SETTINGS menu and then to the GAME page.  On this page you can adjust the GRAPHICS QUALITY slider.  Moving it to the right will result in sharper renderings of characters and monsters.  To the left will become more “pixelated”.  If you find the game crashing frequently, move the slider to the left one notch and try that out. 

Generally, if you have a PC with 4GB or less of RAM and a lower-end graphics card, or an Android device with only 2GB of RAM, you likely will need to stick to one of the first two notches on the left.  A PC with 8GB of RAM and a decent graphics card or an Android device with 3GB of RAM, you should be okay in the middle notch, or maybe one higher.  If you have 16GB of RAM and a good graphics card, or an Android device with 4GB of RAM or more, go for the highest notch and you should be okay.

Below that slider is the SMALLER MAP checkbox.  Checking this can also help with memory issues by limiting the maximum size of generated worlds.  This will only have an effect from level 12 and onward.

NOTE: On Android devices, it may seem counter-intuitive but generally tablets are not as powerful as phones.  That seems odd considering tablets have larger screens, but the reality is with manufacturer price-points that tablets tend to have WAY less memory and processing power than phones, yet have larger screens to paint.  If you have an ~$200 tablet, it is not going to be comparable to an ~$800 phone.


Saved Games/Recovering Games

 

You can have as many saved games as you have room for on your storage.  Generally a saved game plus backup take about 25-50 MB, although at higher levels (with more monsters to save) this can get larger.  Each saved game is distinct and will not affect any other games, nor can anything or anyone be transferred between games.

IDC uses a system where it will temporarily save a game first, then if it was successful it will overwrite the old game files with the new ones.  However, interruptions to this process can cause corruption of saved game files.  If this happens, you’ll generally be presented with an error when attempting to re-load your game, or the game may just quit abruptly.  Don’t panic!  IDC also saves a backup copy of a game each time you go through The Gate, so you can always go into SETTINGS then LOAD/SAVE, select your game and tap on RESTORE BACKUP.  This will restore the last known good save from when you were in town.  If your saved game was during a trip through The Gate, you will lose whatever happened there.  Everything will be as it was prior to you going through The Gate.  

 

 

From time to time, the Mayor’s Clerk will solicit adventurers to complete ODD JOBS on behalf of the town.  You can inquire within, but for convenience these notices are also posted on the kiosk in town outside the Mayor’s Office. You can see how many jobs are available by the number of notices hung on the kiosk.

Taking odd jobs is completely optional, and you will have to assign yourself or one of your hirelings to the task, which will occupy them for a month’s time (they can’t go through The Gate or participate in other activities until another party has returned or you advance time with the HOURGLASS button).  Jobs typically pay an amount of coin based on how difficult or dangerous they are, and many jobs are subject to additional coin for success or for characters of a particular class attempting them.  The success rate is somewhat random but can influenced by various factors which may be hinted at in the job description as well as the recommended level.  Sending characters that are well below the recommended level is not likely to be successful, and sending characters above the recommended level is more likely to succeed.

If you assign a hireling to a job, you will have to split any proceeds equally with them.  If you take the job, you receive all the coin.  Generally, hirelings will get a morale boost for successful outcomes.

Some jobs are inherently dangerous, and your safety cannot be guaranteed.  There may sometimes be the potential for a negative outcome, injury, or even death in some cases.  Choose wisely and balance the risk and reward carefully.

The results of any job are reported in the MONTHLY NEWS after the month is over (see the Monthly News subject of the Miscellaneous section of the guide).

Jobs come and go.  If you see a job and choose not to perform it, it will likely be filled by someone else within a month or two and be taken down. 

Evervale is where you will spend your time when not venturing through The Gate, exploring fantastic new worlds and battling exotic and dangerous monsters.

When you start a new game, you will first head to the Merchant to sell your gold nugget and purchase a weapon.  You’ll only be allowed to purchase a weapon for which you have an AFFINITY and picked the appropriate weapon skill for.  Look for the on a weapon and pick one of those.


Having just arrived in town, you don’t need a room right away.  But after your first excursion through the Gate you’ll need to secure a room for yourself.  Weary and bleary-eyed adventurers are frowned upon and the guards at The Gate will definitely take notice if you haven’t lodgings for yourself.  Head to the Drunken Rooster Tavern, which is the local watering hole, or the Inn.  To enter either, just tap on the building once and you’ll see a description in the banner at the bottom of the screen.  Tap a second time to enter.  Once inside, select the ROOMS button.  No matter which building you entered, when you tap on ROOMS you will be taken to the same screen.

Rooms at the Tavern cost 5 coin per month, paid in advance.  The Inn is nicer, but costs 15 coins.  And if at any time you don’t have enough coin to spring for the Tavern, you can always take up residence in the Alley behind.  That’s free, but … well … you get what you pay for.  At least the Tavern has walls.  Maybe not a roof, but walls!  To “slot” your character to a room, just drag their info box that is in the upper-right corner of your screen and drop it over the room you want to take.  You’ll see your character’s portrait fill the box and the money will be paid up front (this is the same way that you slot characters to any activity — just drag them to the box).  Usually you will be prompted to confirm before you’re charged for an activity, but not with rooms.  And if you slot to one set of rooms, then change your mind and slot to another — tough luck, you’re out the coin for both.  So think before you slot a character to a room.


Your whole reason for being in Evervale is to venture to other worlds in search of loot and battling monsters.  When you are ready to start your adventure, head to The Gate.  To get there, just select the bridge in the lower-right twice.

You don’t need to do it right away, but you will eventually want to explore town.  Before we describe what is available, there are some concepts you need to grasp first.


Many buildings in town offer ACTIVITIES.  These are things that you or your hirelings can take part in.  Most of these cost money but can convey positive benefits, although it does sometimes happen that someone doesn’t have such a good time and acquires a negative effect.  But generally the positive outweighs the negative.

Some characters, depending on their class, cannot or will not participate in certain activities.  For example, while Mages love it, Fighters will poo poo the idea of reading books and doing research at the Bookstore.  Similarly, Mages wouldn’t be caught dead in the fighting pit over at the Armory, whereas Fighters thrive on it.  If you attempt to slot a character to an activity that they cannot participate in, they will refuse.  This also goes for your main player character.

All classes have a PREFERRED ACTIVITY that not only do they LIKE to participate in, but are REQUIRED to participate in about every 6-9 months (one MONTH is basically one cycle in which you can go through the Gate or perform activities — or both simultaneously with different characters).  You will be alerted to when your character or hirelings desire to participate in this, and failure to do so in a timely manner will result in a negative affliction for your character(s) until they do participate.  For example, Rangers’ preferred activity is to HUNT in the Evervale Woods.  This activity costs 20 coins.  Slotting a Ranger to this activity and letting a month pass (by either having others go through The Gate or tapping on the HOURGLASS button) will satisfy their need.  They may also pick up a temporary positive effect.  Maybe their RANGED ACCURACY will be boosted 10%.  Maybe they’ll get increased stamina for a while.  They could also potentially get a negative effect, or nothing.  But if the Ranger was one of your hirelings, they’ll also get a MORALE boost (more on that down below).

Some activities are meant to fix issues with characters.  For example, the HERBALIST over at the Laboratory can fix injuries and cure diseases.  Both the Church and the Monastery can CURE negative afflictions (for a price).  The Monastery also has a HEALER who is more skilled at fixing injuries than the HERBALIST, but of course is more expensive. 

Some activities are instant and do not require a month to pass by.  These activities will have a light-blue background, and most of these fix something or typically provide a positive effect, such as EATING A MEAL at the Tavern or the Inn, or CURE at the Church or Monastery.


Some activities involve TRAINING for either abilities or skills.  Ability training is specific to a given class, and usually fairly expensive at 100 coins plus 150 coins per level of the trainee.  But the benefits of gaining an extra ability can be significant for any character. 

Skills training is less expensive at 50 coins plus 50 per level, and different spots in town provide OFFENSE, DEFENSE, SUPPORT and ARMOR skills.  These all grant 1 skill point to be spent on a skill of your choice in the given category.


Hirelings are affected by MORALE.  This is indicated by colored emojis like this:   .  These are displayed prominently on their placeholder in town, as well as on the ATTRIBUTES screen for them.  There is also a small set of 4 boxes that fill with blue to indicate the progress to the next emoji above their current one. 

It is important to keep an eye on your hirelings’ morale.  Happy NPC’s receive as much as a +5 ACC and DEF bonus.  Unhappy ones can receive up to a -5 ACC and DEF penalty.  Additionally, unhappy hirelings have a chance to come to you complaining about how they’re being treated and threatening to quit, which will force you to offer them perks to retain them, or see them walk out the door — likely with any equipment that you gave them and sprung for!  

Many things can bring down their morale: bad lodgings (them having to pay for their own lodgings is worse), insufficient loot from excursions, receiving damage in battle, getting an injury or disease, friendly fire, seeing another character die.  All of these things will negatively affect their morale.

To counter that, providing diversions in the form of activities (especially those they may be inclined toward) can raise morale.  So can better accommodations, a good amount of loot, doing positive things for them in battle (like healing or buffs), or taking time off from excursions.

Your player character is not affected by morale.  However, as mentioned before they will still need to participate in their preferred activity periodically.  Plus, when they participate in activities there is always a chance for a positive effect which can benefit them.


While we’re on the subject of keeping hirelings happy, it is important to note here that you probably shouldn’t try to hire anyone until your main character is around level 3.  There are two reasons for this.  First, you will probably be okay going it alone on expeditions for a while.  Around level 3 is when things start getting more challenging and may become too much for one person to handle.  Second, you’re going to have a hard enough time at the lower levels accumulating enough for decent gear for yourself, let alone someone else.  Plus, when you take on hirelings you have to split the loot with them.  It really doesn’t make economic sense to do this until you have to.  The longer you can hold out without hirelings, the more coin you can accumulate.  Also, hirelings have to be kept happy, as you read above, and that takes coin as well.    


Here is a list of the buildings in town and the activities they provide:

Drunken Rooster Tavern: Besides witty banter and useful advice from the Barkeep, you can participate in DRINKING and EATING A MEAL.  Also, this is the go-to place to find adventurers to hire.  There is usually a fresh batch of them hanging around at any given time, so if you don’t find someone you like, just wait a month or two.  Note that bringing on a hireling is a legal contract, and the terms will be spelled out prior to agreeing to recruit them.  Read the contract.  You can also dismiss current hirelings here.

Armory: This the place where you can hone your fighting skills.  The Master-at-Arms is an expert at whipping sorry slobs into shape.  You can PRACTICE at your weapons skills.  They also provide ABILITY TRAINING for Fighters as well as OFFENSE SKILL TRAINING for anyone. 

Bookstore: This is a favorite hangout for Mages who love to READ and gain knowledge.  They also provide ABILITY TRAINING for Mages as well as DEFENSE SKILL TRAINING for anyone.

Evervale Woods: Tucked in behind the Armory and the Church is the Evervale Woods, a thick forest teeming with game.  This is a Ranger’s paradise where they can HUNT to their heart’s delight.  They also provide ABILITY TRAINING for Rangers. 

Church: Those who are devout in the service of the Old Gods, like Paladins, will frequently want to avail themselves of PRAYING in their sanctuary.  They can also CURE negative afflictions and provide ABILITY TRAINING for Paladins.  There is an alms box here and it is known that donors are frequently blessed by the Gods.

The Stones: These ancient monoliths pre-date recorded history, but their power is palpable.  A favorite activity for Druids is to PERFORM RITUALS HERE.  They also provide ABILITY TRAINING for Druids as well as SUPPORT SKILL TRAINING for anyone.

Laboratory: Alchemists EXPERIMENT here to push the boundaries of science (plus blowing stuff up is fun).  They also provide ABILITY TRAINING for Alchemists.  The HERBALIST is also stationed here, who can cure diseases and is fairly skilled in fixing injuries.

Mayor’s Office: Although the Mayor himself is much too busy, the Mayor’s Clerk is always here, busy filling out his forms and papers.  This is the place to go if you’re looking for ODD JOBS, although it is more convenient to just check the notice board outside.  This is also the place to go if you’re looking to purchase a lot to build a house on.

The Gilded Dragon Inn: This establishment provides nice accommodations — much nicer than the Tavern that is.  They also have an established GAMBLING hall where a dice game is almost always going.  Try your luck, you may end up winning more than you paid.  You can also EAT A MEAL here, which while more expensive than the Tavern’s, they use fresher ingredients that are less likely to give you indigestion! 

Merchant: This is the place to buy weapons, armor, and miscellaneous stuff like torches, lockpicks and crystals.  This is also the place to sell your loot when you return from beyond the Gate.  Don’t worry, the Merchant will give you the best price in town!  He’s the only merchant in town, but it will be the best price.  He also provides ABILITY TRAINING for Rogues (that must just be a coincidence). 

Monastery: This building provides a retreat for Clerics where they can MEDITATE, although anyone is welcome.  They can also CURE negative afflictions, and their HEALER is an expert in patching up injuries.  They provide ABILITY TRAINING for Clerics.

Blacksmith: This is the shop to go to for fixing up any damaged armors.  He can also provide ARMOR SKILL TRAINING.

       

The Gate: Follow the bridge on the east side of town and it will take you to the cave where the Unknown Traveler discovered The Gate.  This mystical device is a doorway to other worlds filled with monsters and loot.  Demand is so high from adventurers that the Mayor has had to limit parties to one excursion per month.  The cost is free for the first traveler, but 10 coins for each additional person.


Each time you come back from an expedition through The Gate, if you were solo you will need to head to the Merchant’s to sell your loot.  Keep in mind that you can tap on the SELL ALL button to sell everything marked as loot.  However, this will not sell any weapons, armor or useful miscellaneous items like crystals.  Those will have to be manually sold one by one by selecting the item and tapping SELL.  This is a safety mechanism so you don’t accidentally sell some good stuff you may want to keep.

If you had at least one hireling that came back through with you, you do not have to visit the Merchant.  A screen will appear displaying all of the loot collected, including weapons and armors, and what each person’s share of the pile is.  If you want to keep particular items, you can select them and move them to the receiving character.  Keep in mind that you will always have to “buy out” the shares of that item from everyone else, even if you are giving the item to a hireling to use.  That’s just part of being the boss — equipping your hirelings with gear comes out of your pocket. 

 

 

Evervale used to be a sleepy little town nestled in the foothills of the Middle Reaches.  That was until the discovery made by the Unknown Traveler, for whom there is a statue in the center of town.  Legend has it that the Unknown Traveler stumbled upon a cave nearby.  In this cave he found strange CRYSTALS, and when he approached a mysterious-looking archway within the cave, it came aglow with a green, electric wave of energy.  He awoke to find himself in a forest, surrounded by tall trees, raging rivers and jagged cliffs which didn’t look anything like the gentle sloping hills and marshlands surrounding Evervale. 

As he ventured about, he stumbled upon a village of curious, smallish, green-skinned and pointy-eared creatures.  Never having seen a Goblin before, he thought it best to hide in the bushes nearby and observe.  That is, until he stepped on a twig and *SNAP* all eyes were suddenly on him.  He made a mad dash back in the direction that he came from, all the while hearing the shouts of the Goblins in pursuit.  He could hear their angry growls and see the thick, stubby clubs that they wielded.  He even heard a strange sound whiz by his ear and saw a green glob of slime splatter against a nearby tree.  

He soon found the cave where he had awoke and dashed into it.  A green light flashed and he found himself back in the original cave where he found the crystals.  Running from the cave and through the dark, stormy night, he made his way back to Evervale where he burst into the local Tavern, soaking wet and panting for breath.  He told the patrons his odd tale and the news soon spread.  Rumor has it that the Mayor of the town, a clever man, had word of similar crystals being found in nearby caves.  He put together a team of soldiers with a crystal and they ventured through this mysterious “Gate”. When they returned, the Mayor was astonished to see the trinkets that they brought back — ancient loot from other civilizations — and to hear the tales of their encounters with strange monsters.  Many soldiers didn’t make it back from that first trip.  While the trinkets were valuable, the Mayor saw something far more valuable.

Soon, adventurers from all over — farmhands, second sons, wandering vagabonds, veterans of the last wars, those down on their luck — started appearing in town, banding together to try their luck in these other worlds.  The Mayor posted guards to control the Gate and charged each party an entrance fee.  Soon, there were so many teams going through that he had to limit each party’s excursions to one per month.  The town grew and prospered.  

And this is where you come in … a lonely traveler looking to make your fortune in these strange worlds filled with monsters and loot. 

Battles in IDC take a while.  With one character against one or two monsters, it could be over within a few minutes.  But a full party against 5, 6, 7 or more monsters is going to take at least half an hour to complete, maybe more.  But battle is the heart of the game, and learning the subtleties of the combat system will help you in your quest to vanquish monsters.  Many of the previous sections described various stats used in the game, and we will try to weave all the pieces together here.

As we said several times before, one of the most important stats is the game is STAMINA.  As you walk around exploring the world, you are likely to stumble on monster dens or monsters just roaming around.  Typically, monsters will see you long before you see them as most of them have sharp eyesight, hearing, or night-vision.  Its recommended that you try to camp often while wandering around so that you don’t stumble upon monsters with depleted stamina.  This also goes for carrying around too much, which can lower your STAMINA REGENERATION. 

As you explore each world you can pretty much wander around freely and any hirelings will automatically follow you.  When you stumble upon monsters (or vice versa), the music will change and the game will enter COMBAT MODE.  During combat, the action becomes turn-based.  Based on their INITIATIVE and a little randomness, the order of play will be generated.  This is seen by the character placeholders in the upper-left corner of the screen.  Play progresses from left to right.  During someone’s TURN, only they can act (there are potential counter-attacks, but we won’t discuss those now).  When they are done taking all of their actions, they end their turn and the next person or monster goes.  When everyone has taken their turn, it is the end of the ROUND.  The play order is then re-calculated and everyone’s turns start again.  This continues until all monsters or the PLAYER CHARACTER  is dead (you, not your hirelings), or there is enough distance between the party and the monsters that the monsters break off combat.

During your turn, you may MOVE at any time, before and/or after an ACTION.  However, you are generally limited to one action.  That action can be an ATTACK (either melee or ranged), use an ABILITY or end your turn using DEFEND.

Select the MOVE button to display your movement possibilities (it’s the one you see selected in the image below).  If you read the section on Movement and Initiative, you’ll know that the edge of the yellow squares indicates how far your MOVEMENT POINTS allow you to move without expending extra stamina.  You can push it farther and move into the red, but it will cost significantly more stamina.  When you select a grid square that is highlighted, you’ll see the blue TRAVEL LINE as shown below.  To complete the move there, select the same square a second time.  Once you move, the displayed colored grid will change because you have used up some or all of your movement points.  You can move again if you wish, or take an action.  Remember that you can move at any time during your turn, before or after an action, as long as you have movement points left.

If you read the section on Weapons you’ll know that weapons come in two types: MELEE and RANGED (staves are a hybrid of the two).  To attack with a melee weapon, your target must generally be in the next grid square in either of the cardinal directions (north, south, east, or west).  You cannot attack diagonally with a melee weapon.  Some weapons, like a POLEARM or SPEAR allow you to attack from 2 squares away, but it must still be cardinal.  You can also attack over low objects.  For example, if there is a crate in the same square as you but it is between you and a monster, you can attack.  When you select the ATTACK button, the ground squares that you can target will be highlighted red, as seen in the image below.

To attack, select one of the red squares and the targeting RETICULE will highlight that square (ideally one with a monster in it!).  To carry out the attack, select the same square a second time.  You can change your mind and target another square — just select the same square a second time to actually attack.  

To attack with a ranged weapon, you also select the ATTACK button as shown above.  However, the available targeting area will be significantly larger.  How large depends on the range of the weapon itself plus any range-boosting skills or buffs you may have.  Similar to melee weapons, you can attack over short objects.  However, ranged weapons are subject to line-of-sight, which means that you can’t hit targets that are obscured by larger objects or other characters or monsters.  If you look at the previous figure, you can see that the red targeting area does not extend beyond the large rock near the top of the screen.  But the short boulder in the middle, even though it blocks movement, does not obscure line-of-sight behind it.  Also, the ant is obscuring any spaces in line behind it.

When you attack, you’ll see the actions occur on the screen.  Typically you will hear appropriate sounds related to a hit or a miss, and on a hit possibly see some sort of blood spurt or effect on the victim indicating that.  But you should also check your COMBAT LOG to see the specifics of the attack.  Here you can see the results of Wilma shooting her bow at that giant ant.  Start with the line where it says “Wilma range attacks…”.  That shows the type of attack that occurred.  The next line shows that Wilma’s ACC was 53.  Below that you can see the giant ant’s DEF was 15.  53 – 15 = 38, which was the % chance to hit.  The roll was a 47 (again, imagine a HUGE 100-sided D&D die being rolled) which resulted in a miss.  Even though she missed, 38% for a level 1 character isn’t bad.  That essentially means that she’s likely to hit 2 out of every 5 shots with her bow.

It’s a good time to mention that when you start combat, if you’re not familiar with a given monster, or you just want to brush up on their stats and capabilities, you should review their ATTRIBUTES.  This can be done by tapping twice on their placeholder in the upper-left corner, or by holding down over the actual monster on the screen.

You can see from the screen above that the giant ant only has 3 HEALTH POINTS (HP), which is not a lot.  Wilma’s bow does 1-4 damage, plus she has a 20% damage bonus (so she’s really doing 1.2 to 4.8 damage — damage done is rounded to one decimal place, even though the HP here shows a whole number).  But the giant ant also has 12 ARMOR.  But this is a total number for its entire body — individual body parts have less.  So that’s going to protect it a little bit.  Still, Wilma likely only has to land 2 or 3 hits to kill this monster.   The BESTIARY contains useful information on monsters.  Giant ants are simple creatures so not a lot of info, although if you read it you will notice they have an ACID attack.  Higher level and more challenging monsters will have a lot more information displayed including some of their known attacks, defenses, and tactics.  You should definitely read the bestiary when you encounter a creature you have not encountered before.     

Instead of attacking, you may choose to use an ABILITY.  When you select the ABILITY button, a popup menu will display all of the character’s available abilities.  You can pull up information on all of them by selecting the SPELLS button.  Otherwise, select the ability you wish to use.  If an ability is in COOLDOWN, it will be blacked out and you will see a number indicating the number of rounds before it will become available again.  Depending on the ability selected, the ground grid will display targeting colors.  As mentioned in the Abilities section, many abilities have very different targeting mechanisms.  For example, if Wilma selected First Aid, she would only see the grid she is standing in turn green.  That’s because you can only use First Aid on yourself and it is a SUPPORT ability.  If she selected Shove, she would see only red target squares appear — similar to melee targeting — where there is something that can be shoved (it could be a creature or a moveable object).  Selecting either Power Attack or Flaming Arrow would display a large red circle similar to her normal ranged attack targeting.  That’s because both of those rely on her currently equipped weapon, which is her bow.   

We’ll assume that Wilma chose to use Flaming Arrow.  Again, you will see and hear the animations for the attack and possibly some effects (on a hit Flaming Arrow would show some flames burst on the victim).  But checking the COMBAT LOG will reveal more details about the attack.  We can see here that Wilma had an ACC of 53.  However, the DEF line for the giant ant is somewhat different this time.  First of all, the giant ant was using DEFEND (we’ll cover that in a bit) so got its normal DEF multiplied by 150%.  However, due to slightly low stamina, it has a -16% penalty.  The result of this was that its DEF was 18.  53 – 18 = 35, which was the % chance to hit.  The roll was 11, which resulted in a hit.  In this instance it was hit in the legs.  The attack would have done 3.6 damage normally, but the giant ant’s armor mitigated 3.4 of that (successive hits would chip away at that and it would mitigate less and less).  That leaves 0.2 points of damage to reduce the giant ant’s HP (remember the ant had 3 HP).  Since it was a hit, the ability’s successive effects get a roll.  Flaming Arrow does 1-4 points of fire damage.  Since the giant ant has no FIRE RESISTANCE whatsoever, it is an automatic hit because the original attack was a hit.  The ant takes 3.9 points of fire damage.

You might be thinking “Hey!  The ant only had 3 HP and took 0.2 plus 3.9 damage, which totals 4.1.  So why isn’t it dead now?”  Remember that to kill anyone, they have to be reduced to zero HP and then take additional damage from another hit.  The fire damage reduced the ant to zero.  It will take another successful attack for Wilma to kill this ant. 

We mentioned in that last ability attack that the giant ant was using DEFEND.  It is important to understand this concept as you will use it a lot.  Your characters, and monsters, will always defend themselves when attacked.  That is the DEF part of the stats displayed in the COMBAT LOG.  DEFEND is a distinct action that is taken in lieu of attacking or using an ability.  When you select the DEFEND button (the one at the bottom of the buttons list with the shield on it), you end your turn in a highly defensive position.  Anyone that is using DEFEND will display the icon next to their health and stamina bars over them.  This has the benefit, as shown with the ant, of boosting your DEF score by 150%.  But there is a second benefit as well.  When you start your turn, your STAMINA REGENERATION will replenish a certain amount of stamina.  If your turn starts and you are still using DEFEND (meaning no one attacked you in the interim), your stamina will replenish at 150% of your normal rate.  So if you have a stamina regeneration of 3.0, using DEFEND would boost that to 4.5.  That is significant, especially in a long battle.  However, any incoming attack (whether it hits or misses) between the time you select DEFEND and the start of your next turn will interrupt this bonus — referred to as “breaking someone’s defense”.  You will still get the 150% DEF bonus during that attack, but you won’t get the stamina regeneration bonus.  You’ll only regenerate your normal amount.  Additionally, the 150% DEF bonus is used only once.  Any subsequent incoming attacks do not get the DEF bonus until you choose DEFEND again.  Refer to the section on Stamina in this guide for more info because there are additional details regarding replenishing MAXIMUM STAMINA that we don’t discuss here.  

Again, you can end your turn with DEFEND if you have not taken an action and have not moved beyond the green highlighted movement squares.  If you did any of that, the DEFEND button will display the icon meaning it will just end your turn.

So you may be wondering “If a monster is using DEFEND, should I try to attack since they have the x150% DEF bonus?”  The answer is a definitive … it depends.  Yes, attacking a monster that is using DEFEND is harder to hit.  But by attacking them, you deny them the stamina regeneration bonus.  However, sometimes (especially in smaller groups) you may want to get a DEFEND in when a monster chooses to DEFEND.  But here’s another scenario: let’s say a monster uses DEFEND and then you attack.  They have the upper hand there.  And then on their turn they turn around and attack and have a normal attack chance.  But if they DEFEND, then you DEFEND, then they attack … you have the upper hand.  Then your next attack is a normal attack where they’re not defending.  Do you see how that plays out better for you?  Of course, you can’t always predict what a monster will do.  And that’s why sometimes you just need to go by your intuition.  

It is important to note at this point that there are other things you can do that are considered to be “actions” and will prevent you from attacking, using an ability, or using DEFEND during your turn.  The first of these is switching any of your equipped armor or weapons or giving gear to another character.  This is allowed during combat, but it takes up your action.  And it can’t be done during the turn if you’ve already used your action, say with an attack.  The other action is checking a container for loot, such as a crate or a chest.  That takes up your turn’s action as well. 

There is another benefit to DEFEND.  If you are afflicted with POISON, successfully using DEFEND will reduce the amount of drain on your stamina by half.  Recurring poison comes out of your stamina at the start of your turn, so if you are still using DEFEND (no one attacked you), it will mitigate some of it. 

Finally, after you have taken your action and moved as much as you wish, you need to end your turn (again either with thebutton or thebutton). 

That is basically the sequence of events that make up turns in combat.  The whole thing repeats until, as previously stated, either the monsters are dead or your main character is dead, or you or the monsters have run away and put enough distance between you.

We’ll outline a few more concepts that are crucial to combat.


One battle concept you should understand is FLANKING.  This occurs when one victim is attacked multiple times between their turns.  The first time you are attacked, there is no penalty.  That is just a normal attack.  But if you are then attacked by someone else, you receive a -10 penalty to your DEF.  A third attack will result in -20 DEF.  A fourth -30.  Your DEF can never be reduced below zero, but these can be significant.  When your turn rolls around again, all FLANKING penalties are cleared.  

Keep in mind that stacked FLANKING bonuses roll over between rounds.  So if someone attacks you and they are at the end of the play order, then a new round starts and someone attacks you again (even if it was the same one that attacked you previously), the -10 FLANKING is applied. 

For practical purposes, what this all means is that it is better to gang up on one victim than to try to spread attacks around.  Teamwork helps.  That may not always be practical in every situation, but you should try to take advantage of FLANKING when possible.  Some monsters will react to being flanked by running away in the hopes that they can escape it.

On the flip side, you should try to avoid being flanked.  Positioning your characters together in a formation so as to minimize the possibility of multiple attacks on the same character, or using the terrain such as rocks, trees, objects, etc., can be helpful. 

One final note: melee and ranged attacks count toward flanking.  So do abilities that directly cause physical or elemental damage.  An ability that only afflicts a status effect (like Bane which only causes WEAK but does no damage) does not count toward FLANKING.  Nor would something like fire on the ground left over from a prior ability attack.


If you (or a monster) are successfully attacked — a hit, not a miss — you will incur a PRIOR HIT penalty.  This icon will be visible near your health and stamina bars as well as over your placeholder.  If you attack or use an ability in your next turn, you will incur a -20 ACC penalty.  Depending on the circumstances, it may behoove you to use DEFEND on a turn after you’ve been hit.  The penalty just lasts the one turn and then goes away, unless you are successfully hit again.  Unlike FLANKING these do not stack so you can only have one PRIOR HIT penalty at a time.


In dark conditions, most characters will suffer a DARKNESS PENALTY.  In pitch black conditions, or close to it, this can be as much as -50% ACC or DEF.  That can be significant, especially when battling monsters that can see in the dark and do not suffer the penalty.  But even dark shadows are likely to interfere with your accuracy and defense.  The best way to mitigate this is to move closer to a light source and potentially lure the monster closer as well.  Or to provide a light source yourself.  Torches are provided for free to everyone that goes through the Gate that doesn’t have one, and you can purchase more for a nominal amount.  Holding one of these in your off-hand can be advantageous.  This is sometimes a serious consideration when forming an expedition party, to ensure that one or more adventurers can carry a torch.  You can also drop one or more torches on the ground and pick them up later (that takes up an action).

There are also abilities, such as the Mage’s Mage Light or the Druid’s Moonlight spell, that can provide bright illumination for extended periods of time.  These will follow the caster around too.  Other abilities provide illumination too, although they tend to be less of it.  Obviously, abilities that create fire tend to provide light.  

Some weapons provide a little bit of light, like STAVES and WANDS.  But there are also magikal weapons, shields, and armors that may provide light as well. 

Another option is to invest in skills like Night Vision that will lower the penalty.


A note about Power Attack.  Everyone has this ability and it is a good one to use often.  It is similar to a normal melee or ranged attack, but you receive a 10% ACC bonus and a 20% DMG bonus.  However, it uses 6 stamina points versus 4 for a normal attack.  And it has a COOLDOWN of 4 rounds, so at the most you can use it only once every 4 attacks.  Still, you should be using it often.  You may not want to waste it during a turn when a target is using DEFEND, but wait for an opportune moment and lit it rip.

Also, everyone has First Aid.  This is a simple healing ability that can restore 2-4 HP.  That isn’t a lot but it does come in handy.  You shouldn’t worry too much about keeping your health at 100%, but definitely should use this if it starts dipping too low (or more powerful healing abilities when you have them).  Also, keep in mind that your MAXIMUM HEALTH may be low and that’s why your health bar is not at 100%.  If you use First Aid (or any healing), your health cannot exceed your MAXIMUM HEALTH.  That cannot be restored in the field and you’ll have to go back to town to recover it.  First Aid cannot be used outside of combat.  If you need to heal, camp.

Finally, Shove is useful in some circumstances, but it is definitely not an offensive tool.  While it can be used to push a monster, it won’t do any damage or cause KNOCKDOWN or anything like other abilities can.  What it is mostly used for is moving objects out of the way if they are positioned such that you can’t get through.  Shove can be used outside of combat. 


Don’t underestimate STATUS EFFECTS, either targeted at you or used by you against monsters.  They’re usually short-lived at around 2-3 rounds but can have significant effects that may tip the scales of a battle.  Using BLIND on someone will cut their ACC and DEF in half, plus reduce ranged attacks by 2 squares.  Causing STUN on someone means they won’t move or attack and their DEF is lowered to zero while you wail on them.  Someone who suffers from PANIC will run around all over the place expending stamina and have DEF lowered to zero.  CONFUSE can be especially gratifying watching monsters attack each other, although the actions of those afflicted can be wildly unpredictable and they still might attack you if you’re an obvious target.  SLOW will cut someone’s MOVEMENT and INITIATIVE in half. SLEEP can take someone out of combat for a bit (you can attack them with a DEF of zero, but they’ll immediately wake up).  WEAK will chop the melee damage someone does and their stamina regeneration in half.  KNOCKDOWN does just what it sounds like it does — it knocks them down to the ground where they are vulnerable with a zero DEF and they’ll waste their next turn getting up. IMMOBILE and BIND will prevent someone from moving out of their square, and BIND will prevent any attacks whereas IMMOBILE prevents melee attacks (or melee-type abilities) but not ranged attacks.  PARALYSIS and FROZEN prevent the victim from moving or performing any actions and lowers their DEF to zero.  Finally, CHARM is particularly nasty as it will turn someone against their comrades, essentially flipping them to the other team for a while. 


During your explorations, you will definitely come across CRYSTALS.  These highly magikal minerals are what power the Gate, and they can be sold at the Merchant back in town.  They come in various colors, but there is no functional difference.  It is important to note that these do not show up on your MINI-MAP as white dots like loot containers do.  You have to keep your eye out for these and they will usually be in rocks or cliffs.  They also glow, making them much easier to spot at night.

But it is recommended that you always have at least one crystal in your inventory amongst your party.  The reason why is that if you get into trouble — say a battle has gone horribly wrong — you can use the crystal to immediately transport your entire party back to town.  You will still posses any loot that you were carrying at the time, but the crystal will be destroyed in the process.  This can be a good escape hatch to get you out of trouble if you’re in too deep (or if you’re too lazy to walk all the way back to the Gate).  However, if you have hirelings and you escape to town during a battle, they will suffer a morale hit due to the shame of running.


Sometimes you may chance upon a group of monsters that are ASLEEP.  You can generally tell by the music, but you will also see the status icon over their placeholder or next to their health and stamina bars.  Attacking a sleeping creature grants a SURPRISE bonus, plus they have to expend a turn to stand up.  However, most creatures have very sensitive hearing, so tread lightly (taking your shoes off can even help) and walk short distances.  If you make too much noise they will likely wake up.  Also, attacking a monster will assuredly wake them up, and likely make enough noise to wake others (although this can depend on the attack type and the distance, so its not guaranteed).

You may also be ambushed by monsters while camping.  Unless you’re alone, there will be one character on watch who will be awake.  Rangers will automatically wake as well.  But other characters may be sleeping.  The same rules apply in that loud noises can wake them up.  Your characters do not automatically wake when ambushed, but they will definitely wake if attacked.  You will also be in a DOWN status similar to KNOCKDOWN where it will take a full turn to get up and you can’t do anything that turn.

In most instances, however, you will encounter monsters that are awake. 

ARMOR protects your body if you are hit and mitigates potential damage, preventing it from reducing your health.  It is important to realize that armor does not prevent you from being hit.  In fact, the opposite is true: too much armor can be cumbersome and make you more likely to get hit.  That’s not to say that having armor isn’t good.  It is.  It could potentially save your skin in a battle.  But like many things, there’s a tradeoff. 

Typically you will purchase armor from the Merchant in town, although there is also a traveling merchant that shows up each Fall during the Harvest Festival who carries rare and exotic gear (which is also typically very expensive).  But you will want to check the merchandise on offer at the Merchant on a regular basis as the stock rotates often. 

When you initially start a new game, you’ll basically have a shirt, cheap pants and cheap shoes.  These do offer slight protection, but not much.  Don’t expect to be able to afford armor right off the bat.  You will likely spend all of your money getting the best weapon you can afford.  But as you progress, you’ll want to pick up pieces of armor to protect yourself. 

It may seem like a good idea to load up on as much ARMOR as possible, but there are serious drawbacks to having too much armor.  Many armors such as PLATE, SCALE, CHAIN, and BANDED, are very heavy metals and will both lower your accuracy and take up valuable carrying weight that could be used to bring back loot.  More than one novice has spent their hard-earned money on a shiny metal breastplate, only to find out that they can barely stand after equipping it! 

HARDENED armors don’t weigh as much as metals, but still weigh a good amount.  LEATHER is lighter than that, and CLOTH and PADDED armors are much lighter, but of course protect less.


There are five spots on your body for which you can equip armor: HEAD, TORSO, PANTS, GLOVES and BOOTS.  You can only wear one piece of armor in each spot.  Generally when hit during a melee or ranged attack, one part of the body is hit and takes all the damage (usually selected randomly but the chance is prorated by relative size).  Some abilities will hit multiple body parts and spread the damage around.  But when a part is hit, only the armor protecting that part mitigates damage.  That means that if you have a big steel breastplate protecting your TORSO, but nothing on your HEAD, if you’re hit in the head your other armor does nothing for you.  For this reason, it is generally better to have multiple lesser armor pieces covering each body part than just a few stronger pieces, even if they’re just CLOTH.  

When selecting armors, it is important to not just consider the ARMOR value, but also the WEIGHT and the ACC PENALTY.  Several factors play into these values, as described here.

Similar to weapons, armors are made from various MATERIALS.  Metal armors (PLATE, SCALE, CHAIN and BANDED) can be made from (in order from worse to better) IRON, BRONZE, STEEL and LAVA-FORGED.  HARDENED armors are made from BONE.  LEATHER armor can be made from GOAT HIDE, COW HIDE, OX HIDE, MINOTAUR HIDE, LIZARDMAN HIDE, and DRAGON HIDE.  CLOTH and PADDED armors can be COURSE, PLAIN, GILDED, and VELVETEEN.  Heavier armors will incur a larger ACC PENALTY.  LEATHER, PADDED and CLOTH armors are usually light enough they don’t incur an ACC PENALTY.

Also similar to weapons, armors have a QUALITY rating that ranks (from worse to better) POOR, INFERIOR, AVERAGE, FINE, SUPERIOR, and EXQUISITE.  Like weapons, when the quality qualifier is missing from the name, it is assumed to be AVERAGE.   

Armor also has a RARITY value, similar to weapons. An armor’s RARITY will not affect any stats except for price.  However, “better” armors will tend to be more rare, so there is a loose correlation.  Rarity can be described as COMMON, RARE, VERY RARE, EXTREMELY RARE, and UNIQUE.  For items beyond COMMON, the background color of the armor’s thumbnail will change.  RARE and VERY RARE are light blue, EXTREMELY RARE is pink, and UNIQUE is gold.    

Some armors can have magikal effects, such as resistances to negative effects (e.g., BLIND, BLEED, PANIC, etc), resistance to elemental damage (fire, ice, shock or poison), grant higher accuracy and damage for a given weapon type, increase movement, give off light, give bonuses for inflicting status effects, plus more.  Generally, the magikal effects correspond to an appropriate part of the body.  For example, you’re not likely to get an accuracy bonus from a chest piece but can from either a helmet or gloves.  Similarly, boosting your movement is likely to be attached to a set of boots, not gloves.  Magikal armors have their descriptions listed in dark blue.  These armors can come in all qualities, materials and rarities, but being magikal will typically raise the price several fold if not more.

Some armors can have elemental resistances that are not magikal in nature.  For example, gloves may be fur-lined and provide limited ICE RESISTANCE.  These are more expensive than their comparable non-protected peers, but not by as much as truly magikal gear. 


As armor is hit and mitigates damage, its CONDITION will deteriorate.  The more damage that it sustains, the less it will mitigate.  Some attacks, like ACID, are particularly damaging to armors.  Each armor piece will display a quick-reference green, yellow or red dot over its thumbnail, but the anvil icon will show its condition as a percentage.  Once its condition reaches zero, it will no longer mitigate any more damage.  Damaged armor needs to be repaired back in town at the Blacksmith, and it will cost you more depending on how badly damaged it is and the underlying value of the armor itself.  More expensive armor is more expensive to repair.    

One last thing to note about armor that is very important.  Armor will mitigate PHYSICAL damage only.  It will not prevent negative status effects, like BLIND, BLEED, WEAK, etc., unless it is magikal and has some sort of resistance attached.  It also will not block any ELEMENTAL damage (FIRE, ICE, SHOCK or POISON).  That is very important to remember, and also puts a weapon like a WAND in a new light.  Many monsters have considerable armor.  Even though many abilities or weapons like a WAND only do a small amount of elemental damage, they essentially bypass any armor.  That can be a very important thing to keep in mind during a battle with a tank.

Weapons and Armor in Infinite Dungeon CrawlerIDC has a wide variety of weapons to choose from.  Most of these are purchased at the Merchant in town, and the selection available is frequently changing.  Having a good weapon is critical to the game.  But money is usually tight.  In the game you will spend most of your money earned from expeditions in pursuit of better and better equipment.  You’ll pretty much want to check the Merchant’s stock at least every other time you come back from an expedition.  But also keep in mind that if you have your eye on a particular piece of gear, it may not be there by the time you save up.  Evervale is a busy place and the Merchant’s stock is constantly rotating.  Generally, if you see something you like and you have the funds, grab it. 

In the Fall during the Harvest Festival, there is a traveling merchant that stops by in town.  Her goods tend to be much nicer than the Merchant’s, but much more expensive.  If you see something that she has, that is pretty much your only chance to get it.  Her inventory completely changes every year.

Weapons (and armor) can occasionally be found while exploring.  It is also acceptable to take weapons from monsters that you vanquish.  Keep in mind that these are still considered to be loot, and if you have hirelings on the party and decide to keep a weapon, you’ll have to buy out the hirelings’ shares of it (even if you’re giving it to a hireling to use!).

When you first start a new game, you’re likely to have just enough gold to afford a poor quality weapon with next to nothing left over.  As you earn more gold, you’re going to want to upgrade your weapon as soon as possible before you start worrying about armor or other things.


Weapons can be categorized into either MELEE weapons or RANGED weapons. 

Melee weapons make physical contact with a target.  You generally have to be in an adjacent grid square to use a melee weapon (the exception to this is explained in a bit).  Plus, melee weapons can only attack in the CARDINAL directions (North, South, East, or West).  They cannot attack DIAGONALLY.

Ranged weapons can attack in any direction and from a distance.  They typically fire some sort of projectile, whether that is a physical object like an arrow or bolt, or an elemental charge like a lighting bolt, and have a maximum distance that can vary.  Ranged weapons typically require line-of-sight so you usually cannot hit someone behind a taller obstacle or another person.  You can shoot over lower objects, like smaller rocks, stumps, fences, etc..  Ranged weapons tend to be more accurate than melee weapons in the hands of someone with a high Dexterity as the ACC increases by 2 for every Dexterity point over 8.  This gives them an advantage over melee weapons as no attributes contribute to melee ACC.   

Weapons are broken up into TYPE categories.  Some weapons are one-handed (1H) and some are two-handed (2H).  The list of one-handed weapon types includes 1H-SWORDS, 1H-MACES, 1H-HAMMERS, 1H-AXES, DAGGERS, CLUBS and WANDS.  When equipping a one-handed weapon, you may hold another item in your off-hand, such as a shield or torch.  Rogues can hold a DAGGER in their off-hand — this is called dual-wielding and only Rogues can do it.  Dual-wielding contributes 50% of the off-hand’s damage when hitting an opponent and 50% of the off-hand’s blocking when defending. 

Two-handed weapon types include 2H-SWORDS, 2H-MACES, 2H-HAMMERS and 2H-AXES.  It also includes STAVES, BOWS, CROSSBOWS, SLINGSHOTS, POLEARMS, and SPEARS.  When wielding a two-handed weapon, you cannot hold anything else.


Different character classes will have an AFFINITY for certain types of weapons that grant a +10 ACC bonus, as discussed in the section on Accuracy, Defense and Magik Defense.  This is a significant boost and it is strongly recommended that characters stick to weapons for which they have an affinity, at least at the lower levels.  Also, as discussed in the Skills section, there are skills that will grant a +5 ACC and +10% DMG bonus for given weapon types.

Here is the list of weapon type affinities by character class:

FIGHTER: SWORDS, HAMMERS and AXES, both 1H and 2H, and SPEARS

MAGE: DAGGERS, STAVES, and WANDS

CLERIC: MACES and HAMMERS, both 1H and 2H, CLUBS, and CROSSBOWS

RANGER: AXES, both 1H and 2H, SPEARS, and BOWS

PALADIN: 1H-SWORDS, MACES, both 1H and 2H, POLEARMS, and SPEARS

DRUID: DAGGERS, CLUBS, 1H-HAMMERS, and STAVES

ROGUE: 1H-AXES, DAGGERS, CLUBS, BOWS, and CROSSBOWS

ALCHEMIST: 1H-MACE, CLUBS, 1H-HAMMERS, and SLINGSHOTS

 

Prior to detailing the specific characteristics for each weapon type, it is important to know that there are three factors that can affect all weapons: QUALITY, MATERIALS and RARITY.

A weapon’s QUALITY is described as either POOR, INFERIOR, AVERAGE, SUPERIOR, FINE or EXQUISITE (typically the word “Average” is not displayed, so if you see a weapon described as “whatever sword” versus “poor whatever sword” or “fine whatever sword”, then it is AVERAGE quality).  A weapon’s quality will affect its accuracy, damage, blocking, range for ranged weapons, and, of course, price. 

MATERIALS refers to the substance that the weapon is made from.  In order of worse to better, metal weapons can be made from IRON, BRONZE, STEEL, and LAVA-FORGED.  BOWS can be made from YEW, ASH and MULBERRY.  All other wooden weapons (and shields) can be made from OAK, HICKORY, MAHOGANY, ROSEWOOD, and IRONWOOD.  A weapon’s material will affect accuracy, damage, blocking, price, weight, and special status effects (as described below), and range for ranged weapons.  Regarding weight, the “better” the materials the less the item will weigh. 

A weapon’s RARITY will not affect any stats except for price.  However, “better” weapons will tend to be more rare, so there is a loose correlation.  Rarity can be described as COMMON, RARE, VERY RARE, EXTREMELY RARE, and UNIQUE.  For items beyond COMMON, the background color of the weapon’s thumbnail will change.  RARE and VERY RARE are light blue, EXTREMELY RARE is pink, and UNIQUE is gold.    

Some weapons can have magikal effects, such as a chance to inflict a negative effect (e.g., BLIND, BLEED, PANIC, etc), inflict elemental damage (fire, ice, shock or poison), have higher accuracy, inflict more damage, give off light, or have higher accuracy/damage against specific monster types (e.g., Undead).  These usually have their descriptions listed in dark blue.  These weapons can come in all qualities, materials and rarities, but being magikal will typically raise the price several fold if not more.

Many weapons have a small chance to inflict one or more status effects, such as WEAK, STUN or BLEED, depending on their shape and makeup.  The material of the weapon can boost this stat.  Also, as stated in the Accuracy, Defense and Magik Defense section, weapons have a BLOCKING value that can raise your DEF when attacked.  Some weapons are better at blocking than others, and some have none at all.  Also, the weapon’s material and quality will affect the value.  These will all be detailed with the various weapon types below:

 

ONE-HANDED SWORDS: A versatile weapon held in one hand.  Average accuracy for a melee weapon.  5%

TWO-HANDED SWORDS: Held in both hands and does more damage than it’s one-handed cousin, but less accurate.  +++  10%

ONE-HANDED AXE: A weapon popular with several classes and held in one hand.  Less damage than a sword but more accurate.  10%

TWO-HANDED AXE: Held in both hands it does more damage than the 1H version but is less accurate.  +++  10%

ONE-HANDED HAMMER: Has an accuracy and damage comparable to a 1H-AXE.  10%

TWO-HANDED HAMMER: Held in both hands it is more damaging than the 1H version but less accurate.   +++  10% 20%

ONE-HANDED MACE: A little more damaging than a 1H-SWORD but slightly less accurate.  ++  10%

TWO-HANDED MACE: More damaging than the 1H version but less accurate and requires both hands.  +++  10% 20%

DAGGER: A very accurate weapon, but only does half the damage of a 1H-MACE.  Rogues can equip a DAGGER in their left hand while wielding a 1H weapon in their right.  –  5%            

CLUB: This inexpensive 1H weapon does slightly less damage than a 1H-AXE or 1H-HAMMER, but has an accuracy comparable to most 2H weapons.  10%

POLEARM: This 2H weapon consists of a long pole with an axe head and sometimes spikes.  A significant benefit as a melee weapon is it can reach two squares (but still in cardinal directions).  The tradeoff is that is does slightly less damage than most other 2H weapons.  ++  10% 10% 

SPEAR: Similar to a POLEARM this 2H melee weapon can reach two squares (but still in cardinal directions).  It has an accuracy comparable to most 2H weapons but does damage comparable to 1H-AXES and 1H-HAMMERS.  —  5% 10% 

STAFF: These 2H weapons are a hybrid between melee and ranged.  When next to a target and in a cardinal direction, it will be used as a melee weapon.  Any other target position and it is used as a ranged weapon.  It is less accurate than most melee weapons, but more accurate in ranged mode.  However, in melee mode a staff will do both a small amount of physical blunt damage as well as elemental damage.  In ranged mode it only does elemental damage.  ++++

WAND: This 1H ranged weapon doesn’t do any physical damage, but does a small amount of elemental damage (typically less than a staff).  However, they are extremely accurate. 

BOW: This 2H ranged weapon is fairly accurate in the right hands of someone with a higher Dexterity.  However, arrows do about half the damage compared to a 1H-SWORD or 1H-MACE.  5% 10%

CROSSBOW: This 2H ranged weapon is very accurate and its bolts do as much damage as a 1H-MACE.  However, CROSSBOWS are unique in that they take an extra turn to RELOAD (the ATTACK button turns into a RELOAD button).  So you can essentially fire them only every other turn.  However, the wielder can use DEFEND during the turn that they RELOAD.  –  5% 5% 10%

SLINGSHOT: These 2H ranged weapons are a formidable weapon when wielded by an Alchemist.  Comparable in accuracy to a 1H-SWORD and more accurate than a BOW, the Alchemist can choose from a plain shot that does slightly less damage than an arrow from a BOW, or a fire, ice or shock shot (under the ABILITIES button) that does elemental damage comparable to a WAND.  An alchemist can also upgrade their abilities to include shots that can fire poison or acid, making them very versatile weapons.  There is no cooldown for SLINGSHOTS, so any one of the shots can be fired on any given turn.  5% (plain shot only)